Kubb looks like a throwing game and is actually a resource game. Each turn you get six batons, you cannot attack the baseline until every field kubb in front of it is down, and the kubbs you throw into the opponent’s half are the ones you will have to clear next turn. Almost every strategic idea in the game follows from those three facts.
What follows is the strategy that survives contact with a good opponent, plus the three pieces of advice that circulate widely and are backwards.
First, the Myth
Kubb is often described as a Viking game. There is no evidence for that – no medieval text, no archaeology, no contemporary illustration. The game appears in Gotland in the early twentieth century, was commercialised in the 1980s and 1990s, and has had a world championship on the island since the 1990s.
This matters for strategy in one narrow way: there is no ancient tradition to appeal to, so there is no “correct” style beyond what wins. The modern competitive game is short, accurate and conservative.
The Rule That Generates Everything
Field kubbs block the baseline. If any kubb thrown into your half is still standing, you cannot attack the opponent’s baseline kubbs, and you certainly cannot attack the king. So every turn has a fixed order of work:
- Knock down the field kubbs in your half.
- If batons remain, attack the baseline.
- If all baseline kubbs are down, attack the king.
That is the entire shape of a turn, and the interesting part is what happens when step one costs you more batons than you have.
Baton Economy
Six batons per turn, and unused batons do not carry over. A miss is not just a miss; it is a baton you cannot get back this round, and it is the reason accuracy beats power at every level of the game.
Three rules of thumb follow:
- Clear the near kubbs first. They are the easier shots, and clearing them early tells you how many batons you will have left for the baseline. Doing the hard one first and failing leaves you with a field you still cannot attack past.
- Do not attack the baseline while a field kubb stands. It is a wasted baton by definition, and it is the single most common mistake in casual play.
- Count before you throw. If you have three field kubbs and four batons, the round is about clearing and one baseline shot. If you have three and six, it is a different round. The count changes the plan.
Where to Throw the Kubbs You Receive
When kubbs are knocked down in your half, you throw them into the opponent’s half, and they become the obstacle the opponent has to clear. This is the part of the game where most matches are lost, because the instinct – throw them roughly in the middle, near each other – is exactly wrong.
A cluster is a gift. One well-placed baton takes out several kubbs at once, and the opponent clears the whole field for the price of one throw. What you want is the opposite:
- Spread them. As far apart as the half allows, so each one costs a separate baton.
- Put them deep. Near the opponent’s baseline rather than near the king, because long throws are harder and a miss at distance is more likely to leave the field standing.
- Keep them away from the king. A kubb sitting next to the king turns every clearance attempt into a risk of knocking the king over early, which loses the game outright.
- Avoid the centre line. Two kubbs in a line from the throwing position can be taken with one baton. Two kubbs at different distances cannot.
Throwing Mechanics
The baton is thrown underarm and should tumble end over end, not spin flat like a frisbee. A flat spin looks impressive and drifts; an end-over-end tumble tracks the line you threw it on and hits with the end, which is where the energy is.
- Release low, close to the ground, so the baton arrives flat rather than dropping onto the target from above.
- Follow through toward the target. A throw that stops at release almost always goes right or left.
- Pick a single kubb, not an area. Aiming at “the cluster” produces a baton that misses all of it.
Team Play: Split the Turn Into Jobs
In doubles, the turn is a sequence with different jobs, and treating all six batons as interchangeable wastes the structure:
| Baton | Job |
|---|---|
| 1 to 2 | Clear the nearest field kubbs; establish the line and the release |
| 3 to 4 | Clear the remaining field kubbs, hardest last |
| 5 | First baseline kubb, the one that opens the shortest path to the king |
| 6 | Either the last baseline kubb or the king, depending on what is left |
The last thrower should know before the turn starts whether the king is a realistic target, because it changes how the fifth baton is used.
Five Mistakes Worth Removing
- Attacking the baseline with field kubbs standing. Wasted baton, every time.
- Clustering the kubbs you throw back. Hands the opponent a cheap clearance.
- Throwing hard. A fast baton that misses is worse than a slow one that hits, because the miss also travels further and takes longer to retrieve.
- Throwing at the king out of frustration. Knocking the king before it is legal loses the game immediately. It is the only self-inflicted loss in the sport.
- Not looking at the field before throwing. Thirty seconds spent counting kubbs and batons is worth more than any technique tip on this page.
A Practice Drill That Actually Transfers
Set five kubbs at baseline distance and throw six batons at them, counting how many turns it takes to clear all five. Do it ten times and record the total. That single number tracks your real improvement better than anything else, because it measures accuracy under a baton budget rather than how good one throw felt.
Then repeat it with the kubbs scattered at different distances, which is what a real field looks like after three rounds.
FAQs
Should I aim for the middle when throwing kubbs back?
No. A cluster in the middle can be cleared with one baton. Spread the kubbs wide and deep, and keep them away from the king.
How many batons do you get per turn?
Six, and unused batons do not carry over. The budget is the reason accuracy matters more than power.
Can I attack the baseline if a field kubb is still standing?
No. Every field kubb in your half must be down before you may attack the baseline, and all baseline kubbs must be down before you may attack the king.
What happens if I knock the king over early?
You lose the game. It is the only way to lose without the opponent earning it, and it is worth telling beginners before their first turn rather than after.
Is Kubb a Viking game?
No. There is no historical evidence for it. The game appears in Gotland in the early twentieth century and was commercialised in the 1980s and 1990s.
Conclusion
Kubb strategy is baton accounting plus one placement decision. Clear the field before you attack the baseline, spend your six batons in order of difficulty, and when you throw kubbs into the opponent’s half, spread them wide, put them deep and keep them away from the king.
Everything else – the grip, the release, the follow-through – is worth maybe one baton a game. The accounting is worth three.
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